Find Rest Spots. Unlike many other sports, taking a rest break in climbing problems is encouraged. Learning to spot and take advantage of rest spots is critical as part of your technique in rock climbing. Climbers that think they can muscle up a wall are typically not as successful as those that take the extra few minutes to conceptualize a problem. Most competition routes do not separate climbers based power or tricks, they are separated based on skill and ability to read the problem and overcome the obstacles. They are steady level of difficulty with a crux one degree grade higher than the route is rated. The reason climbers peel off high routes within their ability level is they do not managed their rest properly. The key to developing the climbing technique of resting is finding them in the preview or opportunities as they ascend the route. Pick rest spots from the ground when visualizing your route on the specific problem. These may be an overhang you can get your knee under, or an edge to lean against. You can also use smaller and shift weight slowly rather than dynamically using the dead point. Learn to spot sequences which are not technically rest, but are less strenuous than a more direct approach. During the preview try to find a place to rest every 10 feet. The 10 feet or one panel guide is also rest technique for bouldering and traversing.